Seiko’s entry-level collection, the 5 Sports series, was primarily known for its SKX-inspired, dive-oriented watches and numerous collaborations, resulting in pretty cool timepieces. But that was until the brand decided to expand the series, offering different styles (field watches, vintage re-editions, or dressier, cleaner watches) and applications, as well as one of the most practical complications: a GMT function. First seen in the SKX Series, the travel-oriented movement quickly made it to the Field series, giving us a rather cool and accessible take on the exploration watch. Following the inaugural black and blackened SSK023 and SSK025, the range now expands with appealing and relevant earthy tones, with the new HDB001 and HDB002.
With the 5 Sports Style GMT collection, Seiko introduced the concept of an accessible “crossover” watch, combining a diver’s look with a practical GMT complication. The same formula was later applied to the Field series, this time bringing an Explorer II vibe, with its fixed 24h bezel and adventure-ready design. The concept was released with a duo of models: the SSK023 in steel with a black dial and the SSK025 with a black-coated case. Nice, but not much variety was offered. Until now, as two new versions bring colours that make a lot of sense in this context.
The base concept, which was launched with the SSK023 and SSK025, has not changed with these new HDB001 and HDB002. The case is identical, despite the change in reference nomenclature, and is both compact and robust. It measures a near-perfect 39.4mm diameter, with a thickness of 13.6 mm, and is 47.9 mm lug-to-lug. For both references, the case is left as untreated steel, with brushed and polished surfaces, topped by a fixed bezel with a 24-hour scale and radial brushing, and a curved Hardlex crystal (still no sapphire…) Water resistance is a comfortable 100m, sufficient in the context of an exploration watch.
New for this year are the dials, which opt for rather appropriate colours considering the watch’s genre. The HDB001 relies on a dark olive green colour, while the HDB002 is equipped with a khaki beige dial, two tones that give a clear adventure vibe to the collection and more appeal than the classic black dial. The base of the dial retains the same grained, matte surface, with raised luminous markers, an additional 13-24-hour scale, a framed date window and, as expected for this range, a 24-hour GMT hand – a caller/office-style function, as this is this red-toned hand that can be independently adjusted by one-hour increments (expected in this entry-level segment).
Inside the case is the calibre 4R34, the GMT evolution of the tried-and-tested calibre 4R36. This automatic movement beats at a 3Hz frequency and stores about 41 hours of power reserve. To secure the watches to the wrist, both editions are worn on a 5-link, brushed steel bracelet with a folding clasp.
Released as part of the permanent collection and now available, the Seiko 5 Sports Field GMT Series HDB001 and HDB002 are priced at EUR 470 or USD 450. For more details, please visit www.seikowatches.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/new-earthy-colourways-2026-seiko-5-sports-field-gmt-series-hdb001-hdb002-value-proposition-introducing/